The road architects and engineers did a wonderful job to design and layout the road to Bajawa. It is more like an artwork, than civil engineering that the long stretch of tar paints into the scenic landscape. On 25kms it gradually meanders from sea level along a scenic valley, formed by a giant volcano and its satellites to find it way to Bajawa in 1200m altitude. It is a constant up, no intermediate drops into valleys cut by creeks or rivers, no bridges to cross followed by steep re-climbs. Every corner of the numberless switchbacks revealing a fantastic view – back to the ocean in the south, the giant volcano to the east or the mountains to the west. What a treat, even after a long day in the saddle. Enjoy- and unforgettable. We are soon going to miss the diversity of the Indonesian landscapes!
3D areal view of the road meandering up the hill to Bajawa at 1200m.
Birds view of the road builders artwork.
Like a giant snake crawling through the dense forest, the roads finds its way up.
revealing fantastic views in the afternoon light of the sinking sun.
Who volunteers to count the switchbacks and corners?
Hot and very scenic. Roads perfect, except a 2km section, where Cristiano’s ants did not finish the polishing.
Another long, hot and tough cycling day. After yesterday’s 3200m up, we had ‘only’ 2200m elevation gain, today! However the ‘Big W’ wasn’t less of a challenge. It’s 25 km and 1200m final climb to Bajawa at the end of the 135 km stage, required the last energy reserves. The morning started with a quick 500m climb over a 1350m shoulder, followed by an endless (35km) downhill to sea level. What a relief for the legs, still recovering from yesterday’s workout. Several stops to enjoy the scenery and to take some photos slowed down my descend. Temperature climbed into the 40th Celsius, by the time I arrived at lunch, which was setup on the peek in the center of the W, to allow for an easy continuation before the final climb. Getting around the corner opened the view of the Indian Ocean and a giant volcano on the east side of the island. Camelbak and bottles were refilled in the last village before the ascend to Bajawa. Sulis waited with extra water at some point of the climb. My legs felt still strong and progress on the hill was faster than anticipated. At the 110km mark at already 500m I was passed by the van, which stopped around the corner to set out the ‘sweep’. Chelsea was the ‘lucky’ winner to attack the climb from this point, as the slower riders did not continue after lunch or finally got on the van at the foot of the climb. I continued my pace and reached the top at about 4pm. Bucket shower and a good dinner completed the day.
Tomorrow is an easier day to Ende, from where we fly over to Kupang on Timor. Only 1100m of climbs and more than 2000m of downhill. 3 rest days will give the body enough time to recover for the final 3 days in Timor and Timor-Leste before we head off for Australia and leave the Indonesian mountains behind …
The long feared 3000+ meter of climbs day. Roads mostly perfect and new tarred, but some section broken. Temperatures high in the afternoon. Climbs not too steep. Some windy parts.
Alarm got off at 4:45am for an early start into a supposed to be long cycling day. Breakfast at 5:45 and on the road at 6am. Once out of Labuan Bajo, we spent all day on the Trans Flores Hwy, a mostly good paved and narrow road winding itself through the central mountainous region. The climbs were almost evenly spread between the morning section and after lunch. However, the temperature met its high after noon, with 44°C and no shade available with the sun in its zenith. It was a very scenic ride along the mountain ridges. Slow uphills followed by fast descends. However, there was a negative change in the attitude of some of the Indonesian people. We got the first rocks thrown on us by young kids and bad English expressions yelled at us. Furthermore begging for money and pens is everywhere. However these are exceptions, the friendly ‘Hellos’ still a majority. In Ruteng we were immediately surrounded by scholars, who collected signatures from foreigners in their notepads. So we had an autograph session, at the door steps to our hotel and later on we were accompanied into town by youngsters. They approached us from all sides, wanting to shake hands and ask for our names and country. In most cases they only seem to know 2 to 3 English phrases and don’t seem to be interested in the answers and cannot answer simple questions.
Only 2 more riding days, before we leave Flores in Ende and fly out to Kupang to continue in Timor.
Today Cristiano released the long feared information about the toughest cycling days of the tour. Partial information had long leaked before, but details were being kept a secret until today.
The next tree days from Labuan Bajo to Ende will cover 388 km and 6580m accumulated elevation gain – with the maximum of 3240m of climbs in 128 km, tomorrow, the first day after the rest in Labuan Bajo. Temperatures in the upper 30th or higher will make these days a real challenge.
Having received this scary data, our ‘French Couple’ immediately decided to use Gerald’s shuttle service, which right at that day arrived to deliver another box of the best French Burgundy Wine for the two. Bikes and duffle bags packed and soon they disappeared into the afternoon sun of Western Flores waving us a friendly ‘Hello’, ‘Good Luck’ and ‘See you in Ende’.
Well, ‘Ende’ is the German word for ‘End’. Will it be the end of the EFI dreams of the last 2 remaining cyclists – Chris & Brett – who have not yet been sick, injured or too tired to always ride their bikes to the camp ground?
Eric, who is a trained pilot, with a valid license, is Gerald’s personal pilot and they have probably spent more time in the air to get from A to B, than on their bicycle. How else can you explain the difference in tanning?
A short 108 km riding day to the ferry port. And even shorter 4 km the next day from the Flores port to the hotel. However a 6h ferry ride (calm sea), with a 2 hours departure delay due to loading problems made it a long stage.
Someone must have removed the fast gears of yesterday’s long distance ride. Somehow I was going on real slow motion … well, mostly on purpose, as my DLR was again in the handlebar bag. I was riding with Henry again, which meant a lot of stops to enjoy sceneries, get drugged from the infinite numbers of different green you see and inhale the smells of the fruits and veggies of the fields. A longer stop a ‘Little Las Vegas’ and a school made the day. No hurry, as we stay directly at the ferry port over night, with a scheduled departure at 9am the next day. I even stopped at a sea salt field and harvested fresh ‘Garam’ for Hanns, who is always in need to ‘spice’ up his food. Eric, Gerald, Stirling and I got the VIP ‘Dance Room’ suite for the night. Don’t envy us, it was a basic accommodation. No toilet seat, but a showerhead and a bucket. Stirling reserved the only available bed for himself. We 3 got so-called mattresses, which were as thin as a bed sheet and indescribable filthy. Thus we had to call Danu, our driver to get access to our camping gear and unroll the thermarests and sleeping bag liners. Late breakfast at 7am, as the ferry is supposed to leave at 9am earliest (we will find out later why there is no real schedule). An ‘undefined’ German in the group spread rumors the night, that there is no beer allowed on the ferry, and luggage will be inspected (like in Sudan). In the morning brain cells were spinning wild to create ideas how to smuggle beer on board and keep it cold during the 6+ hours ride. At the end it was harder to access the beer in the van than to get it wrapped and on board, as the vans were parked so tight that one had to climb over roofs of cars and seats of motorcycles to get to them and eventually get to the bags with the ‘smuggled’ goods. Even after the beer was finished the Smugglers were taking all efforts to remove the evidence of their ‘wrong doing’ and they distributed the empty bottles in all available trash bins on board. Unloading the ferry was much easier. We were first in, thus going first out. 4 km to the Hotel and back to paradise at the beach, which unlimited beer and bottled wine. 1 Rest day in Labuan Bajo, before we will have the longest climb of the tour – 3200m accumulated for the day. No scuba diving this time, no mountain hiking. I developed another cold at the last 2 hotels with AC. Luckily the aircon time is soon to be over and tenting is on. No more room sharing, compromises, etc. I’m master of my own comfort!
The ferry left with 2 hours delay at 11am. Loading was not as chaotic as the Aswan ferry to Wadi Halfa, but also a nice game to watch. Bicycles and motorcycles where shifted around to use the available space as efficiently as possible. A huge truck with a generator hardly made it around the corners and over the humps into the hull. Smaller vans were coming, unloaded and left again. Then there were 2 huge trucks, pilled up to the sky. It was immediately obvious, that they exceeded the max. height and had to be partially unloaded from the top of the stack. No idea, why these trucks are not measured the night before and made ready to fit. Everyone lines up as early as possible, since there is only 1 ferry a day, and once full, you have to wait another day.
Good news. My phone situation will improve. I get a new S4A in Darwin from Canada, delivered by my TdA fellow riders Ursula & Rae, who will join the tour in Australia. And there may be a chance to reincarnate my ‘brick’ at a phone clinic in Darwin, too. Thanks to my Doomsday fellow David, who researched the address for me and is also prepared to join us in Darwin.
Perfect road conditions, efficient peloton, nasty head and cross winds.
The longest cycling day (by distance) of the Trans-Oceania. We had to make a decision:
Either ‘sleep with prostitutes’ in a less than basic place, get food poisoning or even worse
Or add another 20k to the original 172km and end up in a supposed to be cleaner and better place.
The decision was easy and we agreed on a 192 km day. The strong riders, who would be able to finish 172 km would also make the 192 km, whereas the riders who only ride half a day could decide from where the begin, lunch or refreshment …
I decided to stay lightweight this day, DLR, extra clothes, … left in my daily bag. Only the necessary water, food and GoPro was loaded. Angry Bird got to ride a van.
I organized a small group (Gerald, Eric and me) to stay together, form a peloton and share effort to break the strong wind. However Eric was again late for breakfast and didn’t join us until our first Coke stop at 62km. Soon after Gerald and I left we run up with John and Paul, who joined us and we cruised along with a remarkable pace. 80km to lunch in less than 3 hours. After lunch, John left the peloton, but Shirley and Dan joined in. Soon the 2 afternoon peeks were reached and the final downhill to the hotel was a treat. Riding time less than 8 hours, with little more than 1 hour of stoppage time made it one of my shortest days on the bike. However the hotel was less of a standard than we expected after long sequence of upper class accommodation since the last basic hotel in Sumatra. For the new riders it was a first disappointment. Imagine how the brothel 20km back must have looked like …
Today my Galaxy S4 Active ‘died’ … it was working in the morning on the ferry, and I could upload all my delayed posts, once G3 internet connection was available on Sumbawa. The phone went into ‘black’ mode somehow during the day, and now does not restart anymore. Research says, it must be sent to, e.g. JTAG Brick Repair Service, or have it replaced. Until I get a replacement (I probably need to buy one and resolve the warranty issue, once I am home) I can’t provide live updates from the road.
Tomorrow is a 192km day, with a 4:30 wake up. I have to pack and get ready for some rest …
I used up all my energy to get the phone back to work, with no success, thus I will not be able to post any news of a very exciting cycling day on Sumbawa. We’ll have a 6 hour ferry ride to Flores the day after tomorrow, which hopefully allows me to work on my backlog of updates and photos, via my PC … sorry folks …
Me, and my ‘Angry Bird – Little Joe’, which accompanied me today as a successor of late ‘Sponge Bob’
Later ‘Captain Hook’ arrived at camp to take revenge on the 2 ‘French Bandits’ which kidnapped the nice German guy two nights before in Senggigi. However, the 2 cowards must have heard about their destiny in advance and disappeared from the island minutes before Hook’s arrival. The search for revenge continues …
It was a short but beautiful visit to Lombok. The island totally different compared to busy Sumatra, Java and Bali. I am already on the ferry, approaching Sumbawa, island #5, to cycle through in only 2, but very long riding days.
It is 4:30am in Northern Lombok. A long and restful sleep is over. I didn’t count, but it was way over 100 ‘Allah is Great’ in as many different tunes, before the message in the prayer changed and at 5am eventually faded away before the 2nd round of praises fired off shortly after and continued forever.
Don’t tell my fellow riders: The prayer system here is like a jukebox; enter a coin, dial a number to make your selection and enjoy. (100 rupias/min)
#1 praise Allah
#2 praise God
#3 play Bob Marley
Unfortunately I didn’t wear my glasses, so I accidentally picked a 100000 Rupia bill instead of 1000 IRP and missed the #3 but the #1 … it is still playing at 7:04.
In a fortnight only we will completely miss the mosques and speakers, once we leave Indonesia and its friendly and hospital people to conquer Australia. Will the kangaroos step in to entertain us? Will we hear a bouncing ‘bling – bling – bling’ sound when they hop around our tents in the nights?
I’ll will definitely miss the hospitality of the Indonesian people …
Only 15mins before my programmed alarm sets off. Having an early shower.
revealing fantastic views in the afternoon light of the sinking sun.
