Tag Archives: details

Stage 72: South Australia

Jamestown to  Riverton
Date: 11-22-2014 Time: 05:28 h Σ Time: 404:08 h
Distance: 129 km Σ km: 8590 km Temp: 19/39°C
Up: 562 m Σ Up: 75298 m Down: 730 m
Calories: 2120 kcal Σ kcal: 182184 kcal  
Conditions: Tailwind for the first 110 km. The last 20 km to Riverton against the wind. Riding through grain fields and vineyards.

Leaving from Jamestown was easy: Setting the bicycle into the wind, and off you go. The tailwind blew us almost directly towards Adelaide. If it wasn’t for some photo stops, lunch at 72km would have been reached by not later than 9am. The first 60 km were on tar, the last 60km on compact and fine gravel; after lunch it was a nice bicycle trail on an old railway track, away from traffic. It was as if the kangaroos wanted to say goodbye to us. In the morning, all of a sudden, they showed up around every corner in the corn fields, under trees, in the grass and on the rocks. No time to store the camera away. This changed once I entered the wine area. At least I haven’t seen any in there. Seems they don’t like grapes or carry wine bottles in their pouches. After lunch we continued on a nice trail, the ‘Riesling Trail. It is built on an old railway track that cuts through narrow valleys seamed by pine trees covering the trail into cooling shade. It almost felt as if riding thru parts of the Black Forest, so dense and dark where the rows of trees. Several vineyards have wineries and offer wine tasting. However, my French friends stood me up with a meeting at a vineyard for a joined wine tasting, thus I continued to see, if I can find them somewhere else. The nice tailwind was over after turning onto the second trail, the ‘Rattle Trail’ in Auburn. Only about 20km to go to Riverton. I was arriving in camp very early; somehow unusual for me. Time to stroll through the sleeping town. Because it is a Saturday, Riverton was almost shut down completely. Only a deli and a bottle store was opened, where I could buy some pops and ice cream. Thereafter enough time to relax and prepare for the final riding day, which will lead us to Adelaide tomorrow, with another rest day, that closes the Opal, Missiles and Vino section. Some riders will leave us here, 7 others will join us.

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Stage 71: South Australia

Port Augusta to  Jamestown
Date: 11-21-2014 Time: 06:23 h Σ Time: 398:40 h
Distance: 130 km Σ km: 8461 km Temp: 14/35°C
Up: 982 m Σ Up: 74736 m Down: 539 m
Calories: 3045 kcal Σ kcal: 180064 kcal  
Conditions: Cool morning, hot afternoon. Into the Flinders Range, a short climb. First 28 km on a bumpy tar road.

The first day cycling outside the outback and without road trains. It was so different and for those, who did not cycle in Indonesia, a completely new experience. The first 28 km where on very bumpy gravel road; almost as if build by Indonesian prisoners. A constant head wind was accompanying us. The first 36km were also a constant climb from sea level to 480 m. First almost not noticeable, but the last 6km with grades up to 6%. Nothing compared to what we had in Indonesia, but a lot for what we had so far in Australia. You even saw fellow cyclists walking their bike up the hill. Huge trees were seaming the slopes of the mountain range. We ended up in a ‘Beautiful Valley’ in the Flinders Range. Fields of grain as far as the eye could reach. Large herds of sheep and even alpaca were farmed. The times where we had to carry extra water are over now. Coke stops should be available in shorter distances, as the density of settlements will increase. Wilmington after 40km and Melrose after 64km were our first stops. These are really sleep old historical towns founded in the 1860 range. They still appear as if time stood still since then. Toys and puppet museums are main attractions, as well as old farming tools. Lunch was in Melrose, at a bike shop & coffee house. Yes, a real bike shop! Cycling is very popular in this area. There are even bike lanes and special bike tracks & trails. Since the outback wildlife will more and more disappear, road signs are now warning to watch for cyclists and less frequent to watch for kangaroos. After a cool start in the morning the temperature raised as usual. Unfortunately, I had two flats today, which slowed me down significantly. The first was 8 km from lunch and I could pump up the tire at the bike shop. The second was 30 km from camp and with my little pump I could only get 1 bar air into it instead of the usual 4 bar, making the final 34km a bit more difficult. It was still early in the afternoon and I finally arrived in camp at 3:30pm. First thing was fixing the punctured tubes to have spares for the next two days. X-fingers that I don’t run into more problems in the following two cycling days. I’d rather spend extra time with wine tasting in the vineyards that we pass, than fixing tires!

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Stage 70: Out of the Outback

Range View Rest Area to  Port Augusta
Date: 11-19-2014 Time: 02:25 h Σ Time: 392:16 h
Distance: 63 km Σ km: 8331 km Temp: 10/30°C
Up: 49 m Σ Up: 73754 m Down: 177 m
Calories: 1207 kcal Σ kcal: 177019 kcal  
Conditions: Tailwind let us fly down the 62 km out of the dry outback to sea level.

Conquered the Outback!

Only 16 riders and the TdA staff had an early morning wakeup call in the bush camp. All others enjoyed a long sleep and a 2nd rest day in Port Augusta, where they already escaped to yesterday afternoon. The bush campers however had a stunning night under the stars and a beautiful sunrise over the clos mountain range. And finally we were awarded with a nice tailwind that pushed us into town. The ride was easy and no rush, but still fast. The landscape changed as we descended to sea level into the Spencer Gulf, where Port Augusta is founded. We are out of the outback, at the entrance to the green coastal belt that we will follow to the east from now on. At 10am everyone was at the new campsite and those who decided to not take a cabin, pitched a tent on green ‘grass’, but no shade. Camp is located in a lagoon and it was said, that dolphins have been seen the night before.

Gerald has a cabin and organized a wine tasting for the late evening. I am busy to prepare a ‘best of’ selection of my photos to show during the tasting tonight …

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Stage 69: South Australia

Woomera to  Range View Rest Area
Date: 11-18-2014 Time: 05:29 h Σ Time: 384:50 h
Distance: 118 km Σ km: 8268 km Temp: 11/35°C
Up: 366 m Σ Up: 73705 m Down: 395 m
Calories: 2436 kcal Σ kcal: 175812 kcal  
Conditions: The somehow expected and feared headwind.

With only 2 more cycling days in the outback, I decided to go on my own again, although the strong headwind would have made riding easier in a peloton. However, chances to see wildlife when riding alone are much higher than riding in a group. I left camp earlier than usual to be ahead of most of the other riders. Right after leaving Woomera I spotted a group of Emus in the morning sun on the road to Pimba. Unfortunately a fast approaching car and a rider, who imitating a scene from the last movie we saw – blowing a whistle when our racers speeded past us – made the emus run into the open field. Turning onto the Stuart Highway the wind was really blowing into the faces, making progress very slow. I continued my pace, although I was invited to join another group, as I was on my mission today. The slower speed made scanning for wildlife a bit easier. Soon I spotted another emu family with 2 adults and 10 kiddies.Approaching another big salt lake opened a fantastic view. It was as if the ocean was already in sight. I decided to walk into the bush field to get a much better view down onto the lake. Coming closer to the edge I saw a movement and a kangaroo disappearing into the valley. Soon there were 4 large red kangaroos on the scene, which I enjoyed to follow and watch until they disappeared in the horizon. The 30 minutes walk into the bushes had paid off with this encounter in front of a stunning lake. It made my day I could could continue to lunch and into camp with more focus on breaking the wind. Camp is at a really nice spot overlooking a range of flat mountains, but also a bit noisy, as there are to cattle grids on the road, and a lot of trucks and cars running over it.

Most of the riders decided to directly continue to Port Augusta, the next rest day location, and just 67 km more to go. They really miss the best part of the tour, the nights in the bush, with fantastic sunsets and night sky. However it is everyone’s right to sign out from the tour and find more comfortable places to sleep.

Tomorrow is the last day in the outback. Just 62 km to reach the southern coastline of Australia and 3 cycling days away from Adelaide.

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Stage 68: South Australia

Glendambo to  Woomera
Date: 11-17-2014 Time: 05:53 h Σ Time: 378:35 h
Distance: 120 km Σ km: 8150 km Temp: 14/36°C
Up: 311 m Σ Up: 73339 m Down: 280 m
Calories: 2165 kcal Σ kcal: 173376 kcal  
Conditions: Still windy, but the wind was not as strong as the days before. Temperatures a climbing again.

Today was an easier day. Wind still not completely favorable, but not as strong as the days before. Temperatures are also rising again. I was riding solo again; thought there might be better photo opportunities going on my own again. Going my own pace and not organizing a peloton, it was also easier for me to scan the fields for wildlife. And I was right. I saw a ‘desert crocodile’ in the morning and some ‘mad’ cows. However before arriving at the lunch stop there was not much more, in a real deserted, vast land, with almost no vegetation. But at lunch the landscape changed again. Snow white lakes appeared out of the red plains. Our lunch stop was at Lake Hart, a stunning salt lake, which invited for an extra tour on the white, flat surface. It was as if cycling on a glacier, but much warmer. With only about 50 km to go after lunch, I was leaving at last, even after the sweep. I was lucky that day. Several Emus crossed my way and I could take good photos. Another big lack appeared later and I walked a few 100m into the fields, to get closer to the edge and a better view. Before getting into Pimba I made a sad encounter of a kangaroo. When I passed it it looked as if it was hiding in the ditch, watching me, even greeting me. I turned around and could not believe my eyes. It looked like a funny setup. But then I was shocked, when I saw a slight movement. The pour animal was breathing and the head turned all of a sudden, to follow a truck, that was approaching and passing us. Then I realized that the kangaroo must  have been recently hit by a car and severely hurt, with broken and dislocated legs and probably a broken spine totally unmovable, except its head. It didn’t show pain, but was so helpless with a facial expression that asked for help or relief. It was so sad to see this, but nothing I could do. During the 4 weeks ride through the outback, we saw so many road kills, more dead than alive animals, however this was the most touching view of a kangaroo that was between life and dead.    

Only 2 more days and one bush camp in the Outback before we hit the coast line of South Australia at Port Augusta. We will soon miss the quiet nights and lonesomeness of the outback.

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Stage 67: South Australia

The Twins Rest Area to  Glendambo
Date: 11-16-2014 Time: 05:53 h Σ Time: 378:35 h
Distance: 126 km Σ km: 8030 km Temp: 8/26°C
Up: 141 m Σ Up: 73028 m Down: 173 m
Calories: 2075 kcal Σ kcal: 171211 kcal  
Conditions: Cool night in the bush camp. Wind still strong and facing us.

Another hard riding day. The wind was so bad, that riding in a group was the best. I was trying to form a peloton, but it wasn’t very well functioning and fell apart soon. Soon I caught up with another group and reorganized it to better work as a team. Somehow the groups seem to be competing. As soon as one appears at the horizon the other is chasing it, until it is caught and passed. Thereafter the just passed group accelerates to overtake the former again, and so on. Even in a peloton there is some competition of a kind ‘I can go faster in the lead than you’, causing the speed to ever increase. Chances to recover are not taken. Instead the easier conditions are used to further increase the speed and get other to their limit. The pack tends to fall apart and one has to do the work to keep the sheep together. After lunch I was alone with 5 women, when the last guy left the peloton and went ahead. But I managed to keep them together and we arrived together at the new campsite.

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Stage 66: South Australia

Coober Pedy to  The Twins Rest Area
Date: 11-15-2014 Time: 05:53 h Σ Time: 372:18 h
Distance: 130 km Σ km: 7904 km Temp: 12/29°C
Up: 460 m Σ Up: 72887 m Down: 514 m
Calories: 2230 kcal Σ kcal: 169136 kcal  
Conditions: Stormy night and a cold, windy start. Rain and gusty winds until lunch

It wasn’t the expected tailwind out of Coober Pedy. In the contrary, a storm hit our campground the night before and the wind changed directions again. Everyone was busy, securing the tents and flies. The change in wind directions came along with a huge temperature drop. Compared to the previous days, the temperature was down by more than 30°C. I was riding most of the day solo again and enjoyed the first kilometers out  of Coober Pedy, with some photo stops at the mines. But soon the conditions became worse. The wind got very strong and gusty, later rain set in. Luckily I packed my raincoat the night before an got some protection. I rode with Henry and Doug, who had a slow leak and needed to pump up every 15 km. Lunch was still in the heavy wind and with wet clothes I felt real cold. Refreshed with 3 sandwiches and fruits I continued the afternoon part. The weather improved and became sunny and warmer, but still very windy until I arrived in the bush camp. I setup tent in the bushes, well protected from the cold wind. The movie was canceled as the conditions did not allow the setup the equipment and nobody would be sitting and watch in the cold. The night was clear, but cold.

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Stage 65: South Australia

Cadney Homestead to  Coober Pedy
Date: 11-13-2014 Time: 05:53 h Σ Time: 366:24 h
Distance: 155 km Σ km: 7774 km Temp: 19/46°C
Up: 303 m Σ Up: 72427 m Down: 321 m
Calories: 2278 kcal Σ kcal: 166906 kcal  
Conditions: Wind was our friend today. Made it a partially easy but a real hot day.

After my sunset photo I joined a group of 5 riders for a peloton. The first 58 km were quickly mastered with a 10 minute rotation. Then I dropped out of the group to take a 1 in a million chance for a photo I was waiting for, since we were riding the outback. A lizard was sunbathing on the hot tar, when suddenly disturbed by our approaching bicycles. Luckily it only escaped to the the shoulder of the road, where it was perfectly hiding camouflaged between the rocks.  I got off my bike, camera ready, assuming it would run away from me. However it was quite the opposite. The lizard kept posing for me without fear. I really had to ‘touch’ it to make it move and take a video. I spent quite some time with it, and lost contact to any group for the whole day, which meant another 100 km of solo riding. Coober Pedy is the ‘capital’ of the Opal miners. The whole area seems to be turned from bottom to top. The dugout rocks pile up like huge termite mounts, but not as beautiful. We changed camp sites in Coober Pedy, away from the underground camp, closer to town. I rented a 4×4 with Michael Coo to drive to the Painter Desert for the sunrise. This means another 3:30am wakeup on a rest day. And it was said, their might be rain tonight making the drive on the 100km dirt road to the Painted Desert a real fun ride.

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Stage 64: South Australia

Tarcoonyinna Rest Area to  Cadney Homestead
Date: 11-12-2014 Time: 05:12 h Σ Time: 360:31 h
Distance: 135 km Σ km: 7619 km Temp: 15/41°C
Up: 175 m Σ Up: 72124 m Down: 272 m
Calories: 2339 kcal Σ kcal: 164628 kcal  
Conditions: Good for a solo ride as the wind wasn’t giving too much trouble.

Easy going all day. Unfortunately the pool at the roadhouse was a bit filthy, thus no swim after the heated ride. French fries were great at the restaurant. Another movie night, this time in apartment #11, made available by David J.  Thus no flies and other bugs that would spoil the movie experience of ‘The Chef’.

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Stage 63: South Australia

Kulgera Roadhouse to  Tarcoonyinna Rest Area
Date: 11-11-2014 Time: 04:55 h Σ Time: 355:18 h
Distance: 126 km Σ km: 7484 km Temp: 16/40°C
Up: 132 m Σ Up: 71949 m Down: 238 m
Calories: 2137 kcal Σ kcal: 162289 kcal  
Conditions: Cool morning, heat turned on as usual. Wind was more to our favor accelerating the ride to the next camp.

Today was the crossing over into another state. We are leaving the Northern Territory to South Australia on our way to Adelaide. Before I started onto the official track I turned into a dirt road at camp for some sunrise photos. The wind seemed to be good to us today, as we turned a bit more to south out of the ever blowing south-east wind. It was a quick 20 km ride to the ‘border’ to South Australia. Not a real border, but huge signs warn from carrying uncertified fruit, veggies and livestock from NT to SA. They want to keep fruit flies and other parasites out of their state. The landscape turned flatter and flatter with occasional small hills. The trees and bushes grow smaller and do not offer any shade at all. We are entering a deserted territory. The distances between roadhouses increases, such that we are forced to camp in the ‘middle of nowhere’. No more cold drinks, no cell phone reception. Just us and occasional trucks and caravans that stop at our rest area. I was riding at the very end of the group. Only Henry and Chelsea were behind me. Good time for photos, as the ride will be not exhausting today. Lunch at 70 km was well placed with lots of food. The 56 km thereafter a bit more into the wind, but not as bad as the previous days. I arrived at the desert camp at 12:30. Brutal heat, no shade, but hot soup and tea. Everyone was hiding in the little shade the van and the canopies offered. Some fellow riders obviously don’t like camping, or the desert and continued on their own to the next town, which is another 51 km further south. However not before they emptied a substantial part of the cold drinks in our cooler box. I think the desert camp and camping at all is the flair of such an expedition trip and not the run for AC cabins in every campsite. However some like it different. Tonight is another cinema night, the only goody we have in the desert besides a cooler box with cold drinks for a while, since Gerald bought the LCD projector.

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