Category Archives: Trans-Oceania

Steep–> Steeper–> The Wall

Another Cyclists’ Delight

Cristiano must have gotten up very early this morning. He must be on a new mission ‘if the cyclists think that cycling into a rest day camp is a walk in the park, he can show them different! DSC_2177No way to allow us to run early into the luxury of the rest day hotel. So he secretly changed the track.  After the already 5 tough and long cycling days he thought he needed to top the difficulty of the last stage, again. He must have spies around, to watch and listen us, gaining knowledge about what we think about the grade of the difficulties so far. Through them he found out that we are still the happiest cyclists, even after all the burdens that he put on us so far. In the photo on the right you can see one of his NSA-trained agents, whom I got on the spot, when he tapped the phone line outside of our hotel. Knowing this, we must be very careful, what we say and post in our blogs, to not give him a wrong impression about his scouted trails. Party smile

Back to the last cycling day (stage 23), The instructions on the board read ‘bad gravel’. However it wasn’t said, that the first obstacle, a ‘road with bad gravel’ shouldn’t actually be named a ‘road’, but rather ‘dry and rough riverbed’. DSC_2498I think Cristiano and his helpers got up really early in the morning to stop and redirect the waters of the white river running down the hill, such that we can cycle up the now dried and rocky riverbed. Huge boulders and loose gravel for about 10 km plastered our climb into the surrounding tea & cinchona fields. The landscape was again stunning DSC_2517and the ride ‘pure joy’ for me on my ‘Cadillac’. I was glad to share my hard earned happiness with the hard working tea picker ladies in the fields. For other riders this early passage was already a torture, with more to come later that day. It already took me more than 4 hours to get to the lunch stop, at about 60 km, which meant again a long riding day, as there wasDSC_2520 to come a 2nd huge climb thereafter. The lunch was again a treat. This time we got grapes, a rare and expensive fruit in this area, and fresh mangoes. To our surprise we were told by Andreas and Chelsea, that the track was changed from the original route. We will bypass the busy roads and cut short a part of the afternoon climb. Was it for good or bad? Nobody knew, but DSC_2565Cristiano, who had silently scouted out an alternate route in the early morning. He actually hired a local guy on a motorcycle who rocketed him up the hill, to flag the ‘forbidden’ trail for us. Forbidden in a sense, that it was not an official road, but a privately owned trail by Chevron, who operated a power plant on the other side of the hill, for which he had to ask for permission to trespass their premises. This trail could only be walked or mastered by a strong  motorcycle. No way for a car or 4×4 to drive it. This is where he sent us. A note on the white board said: ‘at 64 km Crazy Downhill, WALK! ’ – For our own safety, because there was no way to rescue us, other than by helicopter, if we had a bad fall in this remote area. However, no word about the ‘Enjoy a long afternoon hike and WALK the Wall! I tend to call the upper section of the 3 km climb ‘The Wall’, G1457727at some parts so steep, that you could only walk or shoulder your bicycle to advance forward, step by step, taking care not to tumble and roll over. Although I managed good parts cycling and reducing the walks to the necessary, it took me almost 1 hour to get to the top.

btw: When I was reaching the top, I saw the last of Cristiano’s ‘Sherpa helpers’, removing the hooks and safety ropes, that secured him on his passage Open-mouthed smile

The downhill on the other side of the mountain was again pure joy and a well deserved reward, for those who made it to the top. Half way down the downhill I run into Cristiano and one of our vans, who were on his way back up to the top. He was really worried about us and our whereabouts, as nobody has been coming so far. Seeing me an avalanche of rocks must have fallen from him, recognizing that it was doable and I did not directly jump on him yelling loud and with threats of group punishments when we all are in camp. Hot smile.  I continued the downhill knowing, that I would win this stage, as I was the first to master this very demanding and challenging passage and there was no way to pass me on the final downhill of this very exciting cycling day.

Later the evening Henry admitted that he wouldn’t have attempted the bypass, if I hadn’t called and described the conditions from the top. But now he was challenged to prove to himself that I couldn’t scare  him enough from doing the spectacular ‘Bike Walk’.

Luckily this riding week is over and the starting level of the moonfirst stage after the rest day is hopefully reset again to ‘novice’, otherwise it could mean that Cristiano must send us to the Moon on Monday, to set a new raised difficulty level.

Astonishing, how skillful the locals run their old motorcycles on such G1457728a trail, sometimes 3 people on a bike plus extra load, like a sack of rice or a bird cage. But even they had to walk their bike on certain sections, because it was not safe to stay on the seat. Imagine this to ride in the rainy season?!

A big THANK YOU! Cristiano and Team, for making these rides so extremely extraordinary, never boring and still enjoyable for some, but at least memorable for all of us. 

Thumbs up Thumbs up Thumbs up Thumbs up Thumbs up  +  Star Star Star Star Star

My 1st Stage Win

Today I wrote my Tour d’ Afrique history: I arrived as first rider in the Camp, which means that I won the stage. It was not only historical because I never compete with the racers, but take my time for photos and interactions with locals, but also because it was the hardest stage ever, due to the last minute change of the route at lunch. Actually I was so early, not even the usual welcome committee (riders who did not cycle and staff members) was around to cheer me in. All were still on theDSC_2598 road, in the cars. Only Bob – who already went ahead to this place 3 days ago, as he recovers from an injury that does not allow him to cycle – was here to witness this historical day. I was already showered and in fresh clothes, when the runner-ups – Chris and Paul – arrived, partially exhausted and still in sweat. They fair congratulated me for my achievement and posed DSC_2601with me for a winner photo. Eric, who arrived 4th, seeing me in civil clothes and best mood, couldn’t actually believe that I was already at camp, ahead of him. Very concerned he asked me ‘are you o.k.?’ thinking I had arrived in the sweeping van, and DNF (did not finish) the stage because I had given up or an accident.  So I had to honestly swear to him, that I really cycled this hard stage into the camp and did not cheat. I was probably the first person who ever crossed this pass on a bicycle.

This story wouldn’t be complete, without some background information.

As a matter of the routing change from lunch, the 3 ‘racers’ Chris, Paul & Eric’ were accidentally DSC_2568released into the wrong (original) direction. By the time this was recognized they were already 10 km further downhill. Now each of them had to hitch a taxi, that brought them back up to the lunch stop. – It must have been a funny picture, 3 cabs with someone sitting inside, arm out of the window and pushing a bicycle outside the car, as the taxis were not equipped or big enough to carry bicycles. – Once the 3 were back to lunch they got on the right track, but Chris and Paul missed the first turn after 1 km (I did not remove the flagging!) and continued uphill into a dead end road, loosing more time. Eric did not get lost, but stayed with Brett, who had a hard day, on the brutal climb. I was still very strong on the steep uphill, although I had to walk a large part of the DSC_2578track with my heavy bicycle. I still took my time to document the roughness of this stretch, took a summit photo at the security post, and wired back to Andreas, about the ‘none-rideable’ climb, to inform the other riders, what to expect on the new route. Some turned around to get on the van, others did not attempt to go into the ‘wall’. Later everyone, who made it through the climb, committed stage-23-bypassthat they had to walk their bicycles most of the steep uphills, as the grade or underground did not allow to stay on the bike. The conditions on the 3 km / 350 m climb with sections as steep as 15% – 22% on loose gravel and boulders or corrugated soil couldn’t be managed without professional skill or extra risk taking

This (partially) explains, why I was all of a sudden ahead of the racer group and never been caught again Smile.

Stage 23: Java

Ciwidey to  Cipanas
Date: 13-09-2014 Time: 05:52 h Σ Time: 136:15 h
Distance: 93 km Σ km: 2732 km Temp: 15/36 °C
Up: 1952 m Σ Up: 30720 m Calories: 2534 kcal
Down: 2103 m Σ Down: 29695 m Σ kcal: 62456 kcal
Conditions: Bad roads on all climbs. A surprise ‘bypass-detour’ after lunch. Very scenic and very challenging.

After the already 5 tough cycling days of this weeks the last stage into the rest day must be something special. It started with another ‘so-called’ bad road. The long climb into the surrounding tea & cinchona fields with a rewarded downhill on the other side, was slowed down by the really bad road conditions. The landscape was again very stunning and the ride kind of fun for me on my ‘Cadillac’. For others it was a torture, with more to come that day. With many photo stops and due to the bad road conditions it took me already 4 hours to get to lunch at about 60 km. This meant again a long riding day, as there was a 2nd huge climb thereafter. To our surprise we were told at lunch, that the track was officially changed and we will bypass the busy roads and cut short a part of the afternoon climb. Was it to our benefit? We would find out soon. The distance was corrected on the board and recommendations to ‘walk the bike’ were given for a steep downhill … to be continued in another post

This completes the 4th week of cycling in Indonesia. It is also the last week with 6 consecutive cycling days. This doesn’t necessarily mean, that the shorter cycling weeks are becoming easier.

 

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No Time for a Tea Break

Legs keep on spinning. Half way through the furst major climb of the day. Landscape feels like riding in Black Forest or the Allgäu, except for the tea plants.

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Stage 22: Java

Cidaun to  Ciwidey
Date: 12-09-2014 Time: 05:38 h Σ Time: 130:22 h
Distance: 72 km Σ km: 2639 km Temp: 21/36 °C
Up: 2437 m Σ Up: 28768 m Calories: 2558 kcal
Down: 1375 m Σ Down: 27592 m Σ kcal: 59922 kcal
Conditions: This was the supposed to be toughest climbing day of all my tours so far; with an average grade of 6% for the whole day. The section from 32 km to 44 km averaged at about 10%, with maximum grade of 20%. It was warmer than assumed, and no wind at all for the most parts. Lunch at 46 km was in the clouds. Very scenic – mind and body blowing.

We had only 300 m flat after the campsite, thereafter a 46 km climb into the central Java mountains started. It was a nice change of the landscape after being at the coast for the last couple of days. First going through rice fields and ending in the tea plantations at about 1800m. The views were stunning, rice terraces, rivers, steep valleys, nice settlements and potentially beautiful waterfalls (during rainy seasons) showed up around every corner.  However, with TdA you have to ‘pay a penalty’ for these changes. This time it came with a brutal climb. The first 500 vertical meters were quite smooth. Thereafter the steep climbs with grades up to 20% started. The average grade from km 32 to 44 was at about 10%. It took me about 4 hours to climb to the first summit and lunch. In the beginning I had the energy to stop once in a while to get my DLR and shoot a photo, whereas later it was always a silent negotiation with myself, if it is worth to stop and use extra energy for a photo. After lunch there were 3 ‘rollers’ thru the tea fields, thereafter a long descend to our hotel. The city is quite busy, loud and polluted. The dinner was exceptional. Nice ambience, table cloth, and a 3 course menu with a selection of good food to regain strength for another day of huge climbs before we complete this week’s 6 stages and have a well deserved rest day.

 

stage-22

Cookie Stop

I had my last cookie stop (absolutely no Coke found today) on the downhill from the tea fields. Suddenly these two fellows appeared debating about having their share of the cookies.

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What are my options?

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Cruising the Tea-Hills

After mastering today’s monster climb I am now cruising the final 25 km thru lush and green tea plantations.  As far as the eye can reach the hills are ‘made from tea’.

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Finally the sun is popping out again heating the air and my cold body. Cycling in sweat soaked clothes is not fun in the cooler air of the central Java mountains.

Let’s see, if the TdA scouts managed to get hot showers in todays camp. It is time again for comfort after a series of bucket showers since we left thd last rest day camp.

Into Thinner Air

It was said, that today’s stage will be an all day climb. Starting from sea level we will reach a maximum elevation of about 1800m. Total climbing will accumulate to 2500m for this stage. Since we are turning inland and heading north, the east wind may hopefully not become that much of a burden. “Happy Climbing”

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Riders waiting to getting energy loaded at breakfast. 

Glad to Ride a Cadillac

Today was the day to fully exploit the full suspension of my MTB. An over 60 km stretch of mostly broken road made me ride like in an American luxury car – with a waterbed like feeling, riding over the rough rocks and deep potholes. When my fellow riders, on their lightweight road or trekking bikes, were going slow to avoid getting every beat of the rocks they rolled over, I was simply speeding passed them. It is a pure joy to race through the harsh terrain without having to fear that the bike will collapse or to loose control over the bike.

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However, after 50 km I was also a bit tired of it and gave the youngsters at a ‘toll station’ 2000 IRP, because they promised me better roads thereafter. It wasn’t after another 10 km, before the pavement finally became better, however with another penalty – the wind seems to blow much faster over smooth pavement, than over rough. And today’s wind didn’t want to make friends with us, thus blowing constantly into our faces, reducing the cruising speed and extending the riding day for longer …

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The last 30 km along the coast line were a torture, being already 8 hours on the road and seeing that the final kilometers are being so slow in the wind. With tailwind it could have been easily done in 60 minutes, however the headwind made it 100.

In camp all ‘finisher’ we awaited with a big hand of applause from, those who were already there (cycling or by van). Later we were rewarded with an excellent dinner, and more food that one can eat.

Breakfast @ Turtle Beach

Had a nice breakfast at the Turtle Beach Hotel. Last night the turtle stood us up. None made it to the beach. Since it is a hard riding day today there was no way to wait infinite into the night.

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Currently half way into the day at lunch in the coconut forest

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where a huge pot with coconut palm zap is boiling to make sugar.

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