It was worth the early morning wakeup call at 3am. Stunning views and colors when sun rose and illustrated the craters and the caldera. Cold up here in almost 2800m but that will change soon.
In the caldera to hike up and around Gunung Bromo.
Easy before lunch, thereafter steep and sandy, but worth every inch. Quick 40 km out of Batu. Good roads, mostly down. Some traffic in town, but thereafter quiet. 2400m of climbs, 1700 from km 43 to 67.
A must! Indonesia without cycling up to Bromo and through the caldera would be like Africa without animals. After the past 4 hard days this was the Kings stage, that lead us to our rest day in the crater. I had a companion, who travelled all day with me until his fatal end in the crater. The morning ride was easy going. Fast enough to advance to the start of the climb, but all about saving energy for the challenging final. A few stops to have the locals enjoy my companion ‘Bob’ and have cold drinks, as it was getting real hot. Lunch was reached at noon, after 58 km. It was setup at the entrance to the National Park. With 1200m already climbed to here, it was still only half way up, but with only 8 km left to the summit. This means: 15% consistent grade (25% at peek) for the next 90 minutes, if not more. The road was partially bad but I made it all the way up without walking the bike. Andreas waited for me 200 vertical meters from the summit. He drove up by van to inform everyone who already left from lunch, but now wasn’t sure to make it through the day, to return here and get on the van, as the cars were not able to make through the final 10 km of sand and volcanic ashes. At the summit Andreas and I climbed a tower to get a better view of the crater. Thereafter a steep descend started on sand, gravel and concrete. We quickly reached the bottom and made it through the first 100m meters of deep sand, before it was mostly impossible to continue to cycle, even after releasing air from the tires. 6 km of walking in ankle deep sand, filling up the shoes, made progress very slow. The sun was already disappearing between clouds and the volcanoes, quickly turning the air cold. We could see the destination from the distance, but it seems to not close up. And it was another 200m steep climb from the bottom of the crater to the hotel. Cristiano was all of a sudden in the middle of the ‘desert’ waiting for us to give us final instructions, about which non-existing ‘path’ to follow to not get lost. Finally back on pavement I first had to release 1 kg of fine grained black ash and sand from my shoes. Overall it took me about 4 hours from lunch to the hotel to cover for the remaining 20 km. Luckily there was hot water to warm up the beaten body and muscles. Food is great in the hotel, so I could reload lots of calories. An arrangement was made with some fellow riders to get up early in the morning (3am) for the sunrise in the crater. 2 Jeeps were paid and at 8pm the lights went of in my room.
The report about the sunrise tour will follow separately, in addition to the live ‘Sunrise @ Bromo’ post.
Perfect Cycling! Thx to the scouts for such a fabulous track. Fast 70 km out of town to lunch with nice supportive wind and almost flat terrain. The climb thereafter with a perfect grade. Easy to cycle and extremely beautiful along a river in a narrow valley.
Today was a cycling day you didn’t want to end. The ascend (I don’t call it a climb) was just perfect, both from scenery and from grade. Easy 3-5% constant, something one could ride all day long and in a beautiful, narrow valley along a sometimes white river, fed by roaring waterfalls. However before you get into this picture we had to cycle 70 km out of town. First thru dense morning commute, thereafter in a flat and monotone rural area. Average speed was at 25 km/h getting to lunch – opposite of a school (you know what that means) – in les than 3 hours.There was the promised tuna. However it cost some persuasion and charm to get the promised mangoes. I couldn’t resist again to go over to the school and entertain the waiting students. At the end I had them perform a ‘La Ola’ and did not leave without some extra ordinary posing photos. Now it was time to approach the 40 km and 1100m ascend. Stock up with Coke and water in an AlfaMaret and get into gears. Soon the road meandered along a river through a narrow valley, with bamboo and other trees. The higher I got the greener and more scenic it got. Picture time! One of the best riding days, so far. No fear to not get to camp, even with infinite stops. At the ‘Purple Gate’ suspension bridge I made a right turn, over the bridge into the rice fields towards a waterfall, I saw from the other side of the valley. What a refreshment to end in the spray of the fast falling waters, nicely located at a Hindu ‘temple’. On return to the main road I met a local family, pretty woman with lovely girls. Before I could ask if I could take a photo, she had already pulled her phone, gave it to the older daughter and asked me, if I allow her to take a photo with me. Minutes later, photos were taken, and facebook friends made. Andreas, the sweep rider, had long passed me. However I texted him, about my whereabouts and not to worry – Joe is in his element, taking his time on such a day. Too much to see, no need to rush through. Andreas was in the meantime waiting for me at the fruit market 2 km further up. We met there again, I bought some apples, he a bonsai tree, that he ‘mounted’ to his bike. 5 more km up and today’s summit was reached. Thereafter a fast 7 km downhill to another exquisite hotel. It was the first time in 6 week in Indonesia, that I felt good and healthy enough to jump into the pool and enjoy a refreshing bath.
Btw. I spent so much time on the bike today, that I got sunburnt on my thumbs, that are mostly unprotected and all day exposed to the sun.
One more cycling day left in this week’s series. Who thought, that we had already done enough climbing is wrong. Tomorrow will be ‘only’ another 2400m up to reach the rest day camp in the Bromo volcanic national park … Stay tuned for photos and other stories I’ll prepare during the rest day.
I just took a deviation from the track over a purple bridge to a waterfall. This day and valley is to pretty to just ride by straight to camp. The extra miles are worth it.
As if I wake up every morning having the same dream. Actually I wake up in a different bed every day – don’t get this wrong! However, Cristiano and his mountain builder brigade manage to relocate the obstacles every day just in time for us. Good job!
70 km done till here. Now up again with my Garmin Smiley, who was said to only smile about my sloooooow pace
Another ‘climber’ with 2 rewarding downhills. Roads partially bad, especially in the 2nd part up and down. Very scenic and a totally different Java than before.
125 km and 1700 m climbs sounded doable. Even after an ‘energy-eater’ like yesterday. However it turned out to be another of these stages for which the scout injected extra spices.
I had a late start, and was the last rider out from the hotel, taking early morning sunlight photos of the surrounding mountains. So I was riding with Chelsea and Henry and had many more stop on the fast 1000m downhill. The air was so clean and clear and the sunlight perfect for photos. Java in this area is so different, different topology, vegetation and less dense populated. It reminded me of some parts in Africa, like Zambia, where you could ride for hours without seeing a human. I did not recognize how much time passed, dreaming into the day. It was not until km 50 before I caught up with Dara. A quick Coke stop and off I was on my own. Climbing started at 60 km. Although very smooth (max 3%) it was a tough 12 km to lunch. Strong head and cross wind and higher temperatures slowed down progress. And the steep climbs were to come after lunch. Hurrah, again potatoes and eggs for lunch. I stocked up with Coke at the first fridge in town. The first of 3 major hills was around the corner, each 200m to ascend on just 2km, means an average of 10% for 6km. Well, in the meantime we know, that 10% average means 25% at peek. The Javanese did obviously cut these roads into the mountains prior of the birth of the smart guy who invented the switchback roads! They look more like skiing tracks than cycling roads. Nevertheless, there was no option than to get over them. Andreas was waiting for me on the 2nd climb. He was the afternoon ‘sweep’ and was in the van until it passed me, because after me no one else continued cycling. So I had company for the rest of the day, which turned out to be a good one, especially during the final 800m downhill, as Andreas has exactly the same fun I racing on rough roads and around sharp corners. On the steepest part of the 2nd climb I had to get off the bike and walk. It was just too steep and my speed too slow to maintain a controlled ascent. The ride on the ridge was a treat. The villages built into the mountain, the lush vegetation and a bit of a drizzle from the upcoming clouds. Between the 2nd and the 3rd climb were approximately 4km of flat or downhill. Good, bad and none existing pavement made riding an all time concentration game. Trucks or motorcycles could ‘ambush’ you in every corner, means usually cutting corner, leaving not much space to pass. At 100 km we reached the top of the last ascend and were ready to ‘free fall’ into the valley. We could have used parachutes to fly down, but decided to ride it to our fun. My Garmin later told me it was my quickest 40 km ever; the last 25 km was 800 m downhill and a high speed chase. Reception in the Crown Victoria Hotel was exceptional. Too bad, that it is only for a night and I couldn’t use the Gym with the stationary bicycles. However I found the first scales in the country and took my weight before I had a real good dinner.
After dinner I had to change a tire, which was more-or-less destroyed on the sharp gravel today.
Tonight’s rider briefing disclosed another tough climbing day tomorrow. Who would have thought different?!
Sarangan and Mt. Lawu greet us in the morning sun. I had a long night sleep, rolled into a cosy blanket. Today another 1700m of climbing are waiting to be tackled on the 2nd half of the 125km to our next destination.