A must! Indonesia without cycling up to Bromo and through the caldera would be like Africa without animals. After the past 4 hard days this was the Kings stage, that lead us to our rest day in the crater. I had a companion, who travelled all day with me until his fatal end in the crater. The morning ride was easy going. Fast enough to advance to the start of the climb, but all about saving energy for the challenging final. A few stops to have the locals enjoy my companion ‘Bob’ and have cold drinks, as it was getting real hot. Lunch was reached at noon, after 58 km.  It was setup  at the entrance to the National Park. With 1200m already climbed to here, it was still only half way up, but with only 8 km left to the summit. This means: 15% consistent grade (25% at peek) for the next 90 minutes, if not more. The road was partially bad but I made it all the way up without walking the bike. Andreas waited for me 200 vertical meters from the summit. He drove up by van to inform everyone who already left from lunch, but now wasn’t sure to make it through the day, to return here and get on the van, as the cars were not able to make through the final 10 km of sand and volcanic ashes. At the summit Andreas and I climbed a tower to get a better view of the crater. Thereafter a steep descend started on sand, gravel and concrete.  We quickly reached the bottom and made it through the first 100m meters of deep sand, before it was mostly impossible to continue to cycle, even after releasing air from the tires. 6 km of walking in ankle deep sand, filling up the shoes, made progress very slow. The sun was already disappearing between clouds and the volcanoes, quickly turning the air cold. We could see the destination from the distance, but it seems to not close up. And it was another 200m steep climb from the bottom of the crater to the hotel. Cristiano was all of a sudden in the middle of the ‘desert’ waiting for us to give us final instructions, about which non-existing ‘path’ to follow to not get lost. Finally back on pavement I first had to release 1 kg of fine grained black ash and sand from my shoes. Overall it took me about 4 hours from lunch to the hotel to cover for the remaining 20 km. Luckily there was hot water to warm up the beaten body and muscles. Food is great in the hotel, so I could reload lots of calories. An arrangement was made with some fellow riders to get up early in the morning (3am) for the sunrise in the crater. 2 Jeeps were paid and at 8pm the lights went of in my room.

The report about the sunrise tour will follow separately, in addition to the live ‘Sunrise @ Bromo’ post.

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Today was a cycling day you didn’t want to end. The ascend (I don’t call it a climb) was just perfect, both from scenery and from grade. Easy 3-5% constant, something one could ride all day long and in a beautiful, narrow valley along a sometimes white river, fed by roaring waterfalls. However before you get into this picture we had to cycle 70 km out of town. First thru dense morning commute, thereafter in a flat and monotone rural area.  Average speed was at 25 km/h getting to lunch – opposite of a school (you know what that means) – in les than 3 hours.There was the promised tuna. However it cost some persuasion and charm to get the promised mangoes. I couldn’t resist again to go over to the school and entertain the waiting students. At the end I had them perform a ‘La Ola’ and did not leave without some extra ordinary posing photos. Now it was time to approach the 40 km and 1100m ascend. Stock up with Coke and water in an AlfaMaret and get into gears. Soon the road meandered along a river through a narrow valley, with bamboo and other trees. The higher I got the greener and more scenic it got. Picture time! One of the best riding days, so far. No fear to not get to camp, even with infinite stops. At the ‘Purple Gate’ suspension bridge I made a right turn, over the bridge into the rice fields towards a waterfall, I saw from the other side of the valley. What a refreshment to end in the spray of the fast falling waters, nicely located at a Hindu ‘temple’. On return to the main road I met a local family, pretty woman with lovely girls. Before I could ask if I could take a photo, she had already pulled her phone, gave it to the older daughter and asked me, if I allow her to take a photo with me. Minutes later, photos were taken, and facebook friends made. Andreas, the sweep rider, had long passed me. However I texted him, about my whereabouts and not to worry – Joe is in his element, taking his time on such a day. Too much to see, no need to rush through. Andreas was in the meantime waiting for me at the fruit market 2 km further up. We met there again, I bought some apples, he a bonsai tree, that he ‘mounted’ to his bike. 5 more km up and today’s summit was reached. Thereafter a fast 7 km downhill to another exquisite hotel. It was the first time in 6 week in Indonesia, that I felt good and healthy enough to jump into the pool and enjoy a refreshing bath.

Btw. I spent so much time on the bike today, that I got sunburnt on my thumbs, that are mostly unprotected and all day exposed to the sun.

One more cycling day left in this week’s series. Who thought, that we had already done enough climbing is wrong. Tomorrow will be ‘only’ another 2400m up to reach the rest day camp in the Bromo volcanic national park … Stay tuned for photos and other stories I’ll prepare during the rest day.

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