The provisional Bamboo bridge closed at Noon for 1 hour or someone told them to reject the German rider from crossing over it. So I had to recall my Doomsday Ride / Central America skills and find an alternative. Piece of cake, it is just water. Shoes off and into it, shouldn’t be a problem. Half way through the water was running fast and deeper., pushing the bike into my legs and almost causing me to totally lose my stand. But I did not really stumble and fall, and made it halfway dry onto the other side.
Roads mostly good. Some traffic on main roads. Chilling in the morning in the high altitude, hot in the lower regions.
A fast 2000m drop brought us to almost sea level on the first 25km. The ride was very scenic and partially steep and dangerous to ride. Photo stops slowed it down a bit and helped to cool down the breaks. It was a ride through several climate and vegetation zones. The green belt started right around the first corner out of the crater, with all sorts of agriculture; fruits, veggies, wood. Further down the slope of the mountain and in the valley we were still riding through patches of the volcanic ashes that rained down earlier in March this year, when one of the volcanoes erupted in this part of Java. The valley was irrigated by a water system that is fed artificial channels that carried water for the fields, but also for all kind of cleaning: body and motorcycles. Lunch was setup at 78 km at a bridge – or the leftovers of a bridge that existed in March, when the track was scouted. Now there was only a bamboo bridge, wide and strong enough for pedestrians and motorcycles. It was a logistical challenge for the vans to get there from both sides on alternate routes, to provide the catering and continue flagging the continuation of the route. For me it was excellent chance for a ‘Doomsday style extravaganza’ to get to the other side of the river (more later in a different post). After lunch there was a further 200m drop to sea level, with not always favorable wind. Still 70km and 1000m of climbing to go. For the last 40km we turned into a nice tailwind. A new road was built with nice switchbacks in a shady forest to carry us in a comfortable 4-5% grade up the 550m to the first little ‘summit’. Another fast 100m drop and a 180m re-climb before the final drop to Bondowoso. It was still a long day, almost 10 hours elapsed, due to the many photo stops and the extended lunch break at the bamboo bridge. Tomorrow is the last cycling day on Java; and guess what, another huge climbing day, riding into and out of a volcano. We will end only 5km away from the ferry, that will carry us over to Bali, our 3rd island, the next morning.
First IndoMaret in whole Indonesia so far that had no cold Coke in the fridge. However it compensated with a real Magnum Almond and the sea not far away.
After some complaints about the not always satisfactory internet connectivity and speed at our camps, the TdA directors have decided in an emergency board meeting in Bromo, to permanently expanded the tour staff team. Two additional IT & network specialists are now being with us on the tour, always being sent ahead to the next campsite to install a dedicated highspeed internet connection for use only by the tour cyclists. Excessive internet users, like our E.B., A.W. and B.T. have voluntarily donated an essential amount of rupias to cover for the additional expenses … I hope the technicians are not being immediately expelled again, for breaking the tour rules and not wearing any security features.
It was worth the early morning wakeup call at 3am. Stunning views and colors when sun rose and illustrated the craters and the caldera. Cold up here in almost 2800m but that will change soon.
In the caldera to hike up and around Gunung Bromo.
Easy before lunch, thereafter steep and sandy, but worth every inch. Quick 40 km out of Batu. Good roads, mostly down. Some traffic in town, but thereafter quiet. 2400m of climbs, 1700 from km 43 to 67.
A must! Indonesia without cycling up to Bromo and through the caldera would be like Africa without animals. After the past 4 hard days this was the Kings stage, that lead us to our rest day in the crater. I had a companion, who travelled all day with me until his fatal end in the crater. The morning ride was easy going. Fast enough to advance to the start of the climb, but all about saving energy for the challenging final. A few stops to have the locals enjoy my companion ‘Bob’ and have cold drinks, as it was getting real hot. Lunch was reached at noon, after 58 km. It was setup at the entrance to the National Park. With 1200m already climbed to here, it was still only half way up, but with only 8 km left to the summit. This means: 15% consistent grade (25% at peek) for the next 90 minutes, if not more. The road was partially bad but I made it all the way up without walking the bike. Andreas waited for me 200 vertical meters from the summit. He drove up by van to inform everyone who already left from lunch, but now wasn’t sure to make it through the day, to return here and get on the van, as the cars were not able to make through the final 10 km of sand and volcanic ashes. At the summit Andreas and I climbed a tower to get a better view of the crater. Thereafter a steep descend started on sand, gravel and concrete. We quickly reached the bottom and made it through the first 100m meters of deep sand, before it was mostly impossible to continue to cycle, even after releasing air from the tires. 6 km of walking in ankle deep sand, filling up the shoes, made progress very slow. The sun was already disappearing between clouds and the volcanoes, quickly turning the air cold. We could see the destination from the distance, but it seems to not close up. And it was another 200m steep climb from the bottom of the crater to the hotel. Cristiano was all of a sudden in the middle of the ‘desert’ waiting for us to give us final instructions, about which non-existing ‘path’ to follow to not get lost. Finally back on pavement I first had to release 1 kg of fine grained black ash and sand from my shoes. Overall it took me about 4 hours from lunch to the hotel to cover for the remaining 20 km. Luckily there was hot water to warm up the beaten body and muscles. Food is great in the hotel, so I could reload lots of calories. An arrangement was made with some fellow riders to get up early in the morning (3am) for the sunrise in the crater. 2 Jeeps were paid and at 8pm the lights went of in my room.
The report about the sunrise tour will follow separately, in addition to the live ‘Sunrise @ Bromo’ post.
Breathtaking ascent to Gunung Bromo. Who wouldn’t be willing to get on the bike to cycle up this magnificent valley? So glad the tour does not spare this part to save us from more climbing.
my Doomsday Ride / Central America skills and find an alternative. Piece of cake, it is just water. Shoes off and into it, shouldn’t be a problem. Half way through the water was running fast and deeper., pushing the bike into my legs and almost causing me to totally lose my stand. But I did not really stumble and fall, and made it halfway dry onto the other side.
